Andalucia holidays, Costa de la Luz, Spain

Villablanca

Villablanca, about a mile from the villa, is a typical “white town” in Andalucia of very ancient origins. It is said that in medieval times a noblewoman established the hermitage on a hill just outside the town to house Our Lady of Blanca. The Saint’s statue is paraded at important festivals including Semana Santa at Easter and the town’s main fiesta in the last days of August. This is a time when the pueblo throbs with music and the funfair. An important folk dance festival is held at the same time. There is another fiesta in May and all the local towns and villages have their own. When you hear maroons being let off, it’s not a ship in trouble at sea but another fiesta.

There are the remains of an Arabic water course in front of El Molino, the ruins of a windmill on a hill above the main street, now turned into a park. The views are fabulous out across the valley to the sea.

This area is famous for its horses. We often see the local riders schooling their horses in our lane. There is a livery stable where the lane joins the main road. From time to time one can see a man on a horse having a drink outside a bar, and the odd donkey tied up outside a house in the town.

The town has all the usual shops. There is a supermarket, petrol station, 3 banks with cash points, butchers, fishmongers, bakers, etc. and a chemist and a doctor’s surgery. There are many small shops or panaderias which are open for long hours including Sunday mornings. Unlike the UK there are no shop windows (it is too hot or the sun bleaches the displays) so you have to go inside to find out what is on offer. The shopkeepers are very patient with our hesitant Spanish. Don’t be afraid at ask for parsley - if you have spent enough they will give it to you for nothing.

The town has leafy squares and bars on most streets. There are a few country restaurants. We particularly like La Posada. The local cuisine is simple but tasty and heavily into pork with the Jamon de Jabugo (black ham from free-range pigs who feed on the acorns in the oak forests) being the local delicacy.

Ayamonte

To the south, near the river mouth of the great Guadiana river, is the main town of Ayamonte. We like to go into Ayamonte for tapas, ordering half portions to try different things. We find that the best are the ones where the locals are queuing for tables. As well as tapas bars you can enjoy music and arts festivals here, and there are shops and supermarkets. Further across the salt marshes on the coast is the Isla Canela. It is a modern resort built around a small fishing village and marina. There are some excellent restaurants in the “barrio” (village).

Isla Cristina

We regularly swim from the beach at Isla Cristina - five miles of glorious sands in a protected area backed by dunes and pines about 20 minutes drive from the villa. We saw a chameleon on the board walk near the lighthouse last year. About every 500m, there is a venta (bar) where you can get drinks and simple snacks. There are no crowds except in August but plenty of room even then. Sailing, windsurfing and kite boarding take place off these beaches in the Spanish holiday season.

Christopher Columbus sailed from Isla Cristina in 1492. Although he was Portuguese it was the Spanish king who backed his expedition which he planned from the monastery of La Rabida across the river from the city of Huelva. His ships or “caravels” were built locally. There is an interesting visitors’ centre and replicas of the three ships in which he sailed for the Americas are moored on the Muelle de las Caravelas nearby.

Costa de la Luz - long sandy beaches

This coast of Costa de la Luz is Spain's best-kept secret, also known as the Spanish Algarve, and is famous for its spectacular long sandy beaches. Development has been well regulated. The Spanish come here to holiday, getting away from the towns which can be sweltering in summer.

All along the coast the restaurants have a wonderful variety of seafood. A mixed platter for two is a good way of sampling what’s on offer. Fresh sardines are also a barbeque favourite, as well as prawns, sea bass and nameless little flat fish caught locally.

Huelva Province, Andalucia

Huelva province has many different types of beautiful scenery including mountains in the North running down through rolling countryside and wide plains to the dunes and long sandy beaches of the Atlantic seaboard. There are many walking and bicycle trails, and historic routes to explore the countryside of Andalucia.

Portugal is ten minutes away by car. The area to the west of the Guadiana is well worth exploring, including our favourites: Alcoutim, Cacela Velha, and Tavira. Tavira is an elegant town on an inlet through the dunes on the coast. Cacela Velha is an old village with a castle on the coast in a preservation area. This is the first of several defensive castles on the Portuguese side of the Guadiana River, up to the sleepy town of Alcoutim. Here there are Roman ruins to explore in a museum in the castle. Another way of reaching Alcoutim is to take a river trip from Vila Real de San Antonio. If you don’t fancy a long river trip, it is interesting to take the ferry from Ayamonte across to Vila Real to do a little shopping and have some lunch. We enjoy tasting the subtle differences between the Spanish and Portuguese cuisine. There is a famous fish restaurant on the beach at Fabrica near Cacela Velha. A good spot for Sunday lunch!

Seville

The vibrant city of Seville is about an hour away by car and is a good day out. There is a lot to do, from visiting the cathedral, said to be the second largest in Europe, and other ancient buildings, to the many museums. The shopping is splendid! Here you will find the café culture of urban Spain, with many fine restaurants. The arts and music abound. But for us it is the joy of exploring the byways and alleyways of this city where many cultures have met over the centuries.